Alaska Snowshoeing

No sewing at all here in Alaska (yet).  All my sewing gear is packed and still in Pennsylvania, where Nick is working at selling our home.  My arrival in Alaska went well, except that on day 6 after my arrival, I suffered a severe wrist fracture while ice skating.

It needed immediate surgery, which went well,  It is on my right wrist, my dominant hand, which is putting a real cramp in my style.  I can not write well and my typing is tedious.  I won't even begin to list all the other inconveniences.   I will recover fully, despite a spatula-sized  plate and 7 pins (or is it 9) installed in my lower arm and wrist.  The orthopedic surgeon I was lucky enough to get is fantastic. 

I took up snowshoeing today.  If I fall it will be at low velocity and on a relatively soft surface!

So, I'm busy with my new job (love it!) and looking for a house to buy.  No skating for me,  for quite some while.  I am enjoying meeting many Alaskans.  It is a beautiful place. 

North to Alaska!

Nick and I have had the goal of moving to the american west for quite some time now.  We thought we'd do it in five or ten years, but the time has come now.  A bit further north than originally planned, but we are SO excited.  Alaska, here we come! 

Around here, I'm busier 'n a grizzly bear eating salmon at Copper River Falls.   

I am excited that I'll be joining Alaska Geographic as of the first of this year.  This job is my dream job, and I can't wait to get up there, though of course I'll miss Nick, my family, and Snowy and Smokey.  Nick and I will celebrate Christmas together with my family, and I fly on the 30th of December.  Nick is staying here for a while to sell our home.  My aunt Teri, uncle Tom, and cousin Erika and her family are in Anchorage, so I'm really happy I'll be able to see them more often! 

Nick and I went to Anchorage for my interview in early November, and since then, we've been prepping for our move.  We shipped my car out two weeks ago.  The car has to go cross country, then from Seattle it'll go on a boat.  By now, I hope it's leaving Seattle to go up the coast. 

So, back to sewing...it's fitting that my last Pennsylvania sewing project (completed yesterday, while I was supposed to be packing my sewing room) is this: 

Using Polartec WindPro, I used an old faithful KwikSew pattern, 3115. I've made at least ten versions of this pattern, usually using cotton lycra.  It's a great yoga pant.  Since the polartec windpro has about 25 percent stretch, I decided I'd go with this pattern.  I didn't make tights as originally planned, as the fabric is not really stretchy at all lengthwise.  The 'bell bottom' should be good for going over boots.  I'm a downhill skiier but am really eager to learn cross country skiiing.   So that'll be one of the first things I do in my off time once I get to Alaska. 

I got the fabric on super sale, directly from Malden Mills a while ago, and although the color is not that great in my opinion, for pants (I prefer a darker more retiring color), they'll work!  I was inspired to make these pants, after spending almost $100 on a simple pair of cool weather tights at Athleta.  I'm not enamored with the color of these (really, I believe it would be a better color for a jacket) but for sure these will be warm. 

Nick and I will be living in Anchorage.  It's relatively warm there in the winter, due to the proximity of the ocean.  It's an absolutely stunningly beautiful place, and I'm thrilled about the new job I'll be taking soon.  

So, I'll leave you  now, with wishes for a beautiful holiday season.  I'm off to celebrate Christmas. But first, a few last-minute gifts to buy this morning, and then, finishing packing up the sewing room. 

I'll see you 'on the other side' !!!

Comically Draped

Paco Peralta's draped top.  I used polyester knit in a silly print, purchased from Vogue Fabrics near Chicago three (or was it four?) years ago.   Perfect under a black suit jacket at work.  Gives that little pop of color. 

I changed the design somewhat.  I added bands at the armhole and at the bottom,and lengthened the top 2 inches total.  The bands are simple to create.  At the arms, simply cut 2 inch wide lengths, and then make their length approximately 1/6 to 1/7 smaller than the opening.  Stitch, then turn around the raw edge and secure.  I did the same thing at the waist, but used a 3.5 inch wide length.

I'm making another version.  The next one will be a silk woven, and in a smaller size.  This size is just a bit large.   The new version will be made just as the designer intended. It will not have bands added at the waist and armhole. 

Shape, Shape, Shape...

Shape, shape, shape... Shape that booty...shape that booty.

I guess 'shapers' have come back into fashion, but when I was growing up, in the 60s and 70s, no one except grammas wore 'girdles'. As a young teen, I  used to go to the department stores to oogle the latest Jessica McClintock offerings, and inevitably, on the way to somewhere else more exciting, I'd pass through the 'intimates' section.  The girdles were called foundation garments and they were displayed along with these big wide-elastic strapped, batten-down-the-hatches cross your heart bras.  How I and my friends would giggle and gape in horror! 

Back then, it seemed that most women's underwear of two polar opposite choices.  Either you wore ethereal little nothings (for the young) or you wore  pasty white or beige rubber contraptions featuring armored abdominal carapaces and garter belts for stockings attached at the upper thigh.   We young people wore bikinis and 'barely there' training bras (if a bra at all).  Old ladies (and to me, anyone over 35 was really, really old) wore the big ole white or beige panties (waistband came up to the bra line) and white bullet bras. 


Now, I am the same age as what only a few short years ago I considered  "old".   Ha!   At least nowadays we older adults  have a choice other than  big ole' white panties, bandage bras, and carapace girdles. 

This "body shaper" pattern from Christine Jonson is so much fun to sew!  The pattern's in just two pieces, and the final garment is totally reversible.  You cut two 'body ' pieces and one inner leg piece, then sandwich them together.  At first, I was puzzled at how this would work, but I plunged ahead and it turned out to be amazingly quick and fun.  This took me 15 minutes to cut, then another 15 to sew.  The crotch and inner leg piece is one layer, and is sandwiched between the lining and inner layers.  I'm normally not one for girdles or shapers, but this gives a nice smooth line under clothing.  If you wanted a tighter feel, you could use a stiffer knit fabric, or sew a smaller size, I guess. 


I like that this provides some modesty under a dress (and with a slip, you'd be fully and thoroughly covered!).  I have this wierd paranoia thing.  So I want to be assured that if I fall in the street wearing a dress, which thankfully I've not done very often...I don't want the world to see my "goods".  With this little number on my booty, I'm good to go. Insurance! 

The fabric I used here was originally destined for a shirt, but I changed my mind.   The black that I used for the lining is also from Christine Jonson.  It's called "your second skin" and is nice, sleek comfortable knit.  I am glad I bought two yards of this, because I'll be able to make five or 6 of these shapers now!  You can see more details on the fabric here . 

On The Cloud

Summer where I live (northeast coast of U.S.) calls for layers. 

Do you like to have something light and easy to throw on over almost anything? 

I do.  So, yesterday, I pulled out a recent acquisition from Christine Jonson - this white fabric is double layered and quilted together in strategic places.   It looks delicate but has the virtue of being pretty hardy stuff.  You can see details of the fabric which is still for sale by clicking here:  "Milky Way Crush". 

I used Christine's "Travel Trio One" jacket pattern as my base, using two left sides of the front pattern (instead of a right side drape) and I cut about six inches off the center front on both sides at the front.  This created an open, long vertical line.  I used this pattern as my base, as I like the way the back fits me.  I've made the style twice before, so it's very familiar and easy.  

It's a nice, relaxed, but I think elegant summer cardigan.  And it's machine washable, which in a white fabric, is a very, very good thing.

So, after wearing this today, I'm calling it my 'cloud' jacket.  It floats with some weight as I walk, and is perfect for summer, when I am in and out of air conditioning and need something to throw over my arms to keep off the chill.  

Close up of the serged edge. 

A Fabulous Dress! Draped Collar Tunic.

The collar is shaped beautifully and sets into the garment well. 

 It's summer  right now, where I live, and  it's hot and humid.  This pattern, Paco Peralta's Draped Collar Tunic, worked very well with my fine knit.  The knit is drapey and therefore not "widening" to the figure when it's being worn.  It is widening in still photos, especially with the stripes horizontal, but trust me,  with movement in wearing it, it's not that way in real life. 

This pattern is beautifully drafted.  I made the size "small" and it was plenty large enough for my RTW size 8 frame.  I lengthened it to make a dress instead of a tunic. 

I can't wait to make up more "Paco" patterns!  This one was absolutely impeccably drafted, and hand labeled and lined.  And the paper is sturdy but very foldable. I would imagine all of his patterns are like this one in that way. 

The only thing in any way tricky about making this style up is the way the shoulder seam interacts with the collar.  So here are some photos. 



Shoulder seam.  Note that the collar piece becomes part of the front shoulder. 


Paco has some great photos and explanation here on his blog.  To supplement these, I created some detailed sewing instructions in English, thinking they might be helpful to some of you.  Look for these at the end of this post. 


Another view of the collar and shoulder seam. 



Finished! 

Sewing Directions for Paco Peralta’s Draped Tunic Top
By Barbara Bell, Cat Fur Studio

June, 2012

Sew all seams with serger unless directed otherwise. Fit as you go, and of course, adjust the pattern beforehand as you need. As for me, length was my only issue. I added length in the body and in the sleeves.

This pattern is for a top or tunic, but I chose to make a dress, so I added 2 inches at the hem (even after executing my normal length adjustments) to end up with an above-the-knee dress design. Perfect with heels on a relaxed but professional day at work.


1. For the collar piece, reinforce all four corners. Straight-stitch 5/8 inch from edge, pivoting at corners. Stitching should continue along seamline approximately 1 inch away from each pivot point.


2. Serge-finish the curved edge of the collar piece on one side only. This piece will hang free in your finished garment. If you’re using a knit fabric, this is optional, as knit does not ravel.


3. Serge together the collar piece at the center back seam. Press to one side.


4. Now, it’s time to pick up the front body piece, which you’ll attach to the public side of the front collar. Serge one side of the front collar to the front body piece at the neckline. You will be matching convex (collar piece) to concave (body piece). Match the points at CF and at each side, and sew in one seam. Press seam allowance toward collar side.


5. Now for the back body piece. At the shoulders, on each side, starting from the outer edge, and using a straight stitch, stitch the back body to the front body. The match point on the back will line up with the seam on the front (where the collar meets the front body). The front body INCLUDES some of the collar, up to the marked pivot point. Keep stitching until you get to the pivot point (where you reinforced in step one above). Stitch right over your reinforcement stitching, and STOP and back stitch at each pivot point.


6. Now, on the collar, on the side you just stitched, clip into the corners on each side. Starting at the corner on one side, and straight-stitching directly over your reinforcement stitching, sew the collar to the back neck side of the back body piece. Backstitch directly over the corner, stitch, and then be sure to end your stitching at the opposite side, stopping directly at the reinforced corner, then backstitch to secure.


7. You have one side of the collar attached to the ‘public’ side of the garment. Now, it’s time to attach the inside of the collar to the garment. Turn your tunic inside out, so that the wrong sides of the body are outside.


8. Clip the corners to the reinforcement stitching on the as yet unstitched side of the collar. Match all seams. Straight-stitch the inside back of the collar, starting at the edge of one side, all the way to the other side. Line the unstitched side up, match the raw seams, and stitch exactly on the previous stitching line.


9. You now have a nicely finished back neckline, inside and out. Leave the front part of the collar unstitched. It will hang free inside the garment. It will drape down nicely and will not be visible when wearing. You could tack it down at CF or even stitch it down all around, but this is not necessary. Relax. The hard part is done.


10. Time to sew on the sleeves. You’ll do this on the “flat”. Simply serge the sleeves onto the body making sure to match points and edges. Press seam toward the shoulder (not down into the sleeve). I think it looks nicer this way.


11. Now for the home stretch. Sew the side seams. Use the serger. Very easy! Muy facil!


12. Hem all around.


13. Y, ahora, usted tiene uno vestido fabuloso! (And now, you have one fabulous dress!)

Enjoy!  Barbara

Everyday Dress - Purple

Purple is my favorite color. Here's Butterick 5078 in an everyday dress. I used polyester lycra from Metro Textile in NYC. Easy to execute. This will be an excellent work dress. Wash and dry. I can wear with a jacket or not. My matching purple pumps are in my shoe closet at work (I commute in flats or boots, normally, and change into my high heeled shoes when I get to work). So I'm showing it with boots, so you can at least see the dress!